French Fashion History: Louis the XIVth Reign (1643 - 1715)

At the court of Louis the XIVth women intended to emulate the king's mistress Mme de Montespan's style.
Her lavish dresses were often unfettered and loose so as to allow her to move more easily during her seven pregnancies. Even after her departure from the palace her fashion favorite remained  copied.

Moreover her hair style was imitated as well. Cut in graduated lengths, it hung in thick curls falling low on the cheecks with black ribbons & pearls on it.

Fashion Under the Sun King's reign became a question of "étiquette" with the king, representative of courtly absolutism making the Versailles court obey his fancies. Men and women wanted to shine in dresses, not hesitating going on the debt path in order to do so. Then nobles tried to immitate and follow as far as possible but in a more reasonable way. Nevertheless one trend was soon replaced by some newer fashion.

Here's a little selection of the main trends during Louis the XIVth reign:
-The Head-Dress

Head-Dress

One variation of the head-dress was introduced by one of the king's last mistresses, Mlle de Fontanges, with the head-dress tied aside with a ribbon-garters, the ends falling over her forehead. That would soon be adopted by the ladies of the court, then by the wealthy Parisians, being called "coiffure à la Fontanges".

Duchesse de Fontanges

- Scarves which came back into fashion in the mid 1650's, ladies were wearing them as light garments on their shoulders.


- Justaucorps, mid-thigh-length overcoats later adopted by the bourgeoises, especially when riding.